How to speed up your shoe making process using basic pattern

How to speed up your shoe making process using basic pattern

Today I will show you fast and easy pattern making a workaround. This new approach will save you time in working on your shoe patterns as you will be focusing on one main part- Basic Pattern.

Usually in all my shoemaking courses online we make the basic pattern and all other parts needed. This is how and should work, but today I’ll teach you the new way how you can concentrate all patterns in one.

How you usually construct shoe pattern?

You will see and understand how each step of this pattern making works using the example of this Oxford shoes



1.  First Basic Pattern



It’s a clean pattern without your design, just to make it fit perfectly on the last.

2.  Complete Basic Pattern. 



After you checked your first basic pattern you can transfer the design of your shoes there.


3. The pattern of the Toe cap with added folding


pattern-construction 004

4. The pattern of the Vamp with folding and underline seam allowance


pattern-construction 005

5.Pattern of the quarters with underline seam allowance and folding

pattern-construction 006

6. The pattern of the back part with around folding


7. The pattern of the tongue with underline seam allowance


pattern-construction 008


A new approach to pattern construction


1 First Basic pattern (as it was in the previous method)

pattern-construction 002

2 Complete Basic Pattern

pattern-construction 002

3. Compete for basic pattern with all seam allowance of each detail on it.


To this complete Basic pattern, you will add lines of each detail (toe cap, vamp etc) all necessary seams allowance. All design, details, and parts of this model will be concentrated in one place.

Once you marked all seam allowances of each shoe part on the basic pattern, you will have a full map, a guide for each part that you need for this shoe.



The good thing about this approach is, that when you create a pattern of specific detail you don’t need to think each time, how much millimeters you need to add for seam allowance and adjust each time your compasses.
This way you will save your time and will work faster. It’s especially helpful if you need to make many different patterns in short time.

On the other hand, this approach can be very confusing and not that clean. Concentrating too many lines, design, seam allowances of every part will require your full attention.  So work with this kind of pattern very carefully and here is a quick tip.
To not be confused with so many marks on your Basic pattern, mark them with different colors, for example folding mark with blue color, underline mark with red color etc.

Those are the two ways you can work on the pattern. I from my personal experience, if I don’t need to create a dozen patterns I prefer the first clean way. What way of pattern making do you prefer?

Shoemaking Courses
  • November 11, 2014

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