Usually in all my shoemaking courses online we make the basic pattern and all other parts needed. This is how and should work, but today I’ll teach you new way how you can concentrate all patterns in one.
How you usually construct shoe pattern?
You will see and understand how each step of this pattern making works using the example of this Oxford shoes
1. First Basic Pattern
It’s a clean pattern without your design, just to make it fit perfectly on the last.
2. Complete Basic Pattern.
After you checked your first basic pattern you can transfer the design of your shoes there.
3. Pattern of the Toe cap with added folding
4. Pattern of the Vamp with folding and under line seam allowance
5.Pattern of the quarters with underline seam allowance and folding
6. The pattern of the back part with around folding
7. Pattern of the tongue with under line seam allowance
New approach to pattern construction
1 First Basic pattern (as it was in previous method)
2 Complete Basic Pattern
3. Compete basic pattern with all seam allowance of each detail on it.
To this complete Basic pattern you will add lines of each detail (toe cap, vamp etc) all necessary seams allowance. All design, details and parts of this model will be concentrated in one place.
Once you marked all seam allowances of each shoe part on the basic pattern, you will have a full map, a guide for each part that you need for this shoe.
The good thing about this approach is, that when you create pattern of specific detail you don’t need to think each time, how much millimeters you need to add for seam allowance and adjust each time your compasses.
This way you will save your time and will work faster. It’s especially helpful if you need to make many different patterns in short time.
On the other hand this approach can be very confusing and not that clean. Concentrating too many lines, design, seam allowances of every part will require your full attention. So work with this kind of pattern very carefully and here is a quick tip.
To not be confused with so many marks on your Basic pattern, mark them with different colors, for example folding mark with blue color, under line mark with red color etc.
Those are the two ways you can work on the pattern. I from my personal experience, if I don’t need to create dozen patterns I prefer the first clean way. What way of pattern making do you prefer?