How to speed up your shoe making process using basic pattern


How to speed up your shoe making process using basic pattern

Today I will show you fast and easy pattern making workaround. This new approach will save you time in working on your shoe patterns as you will be focusing on one main part- Basic Pattern.

Usually in all my shoemaking courses online we make the basic pattern and all other parts needed. This is how and should work, but today I’ll teach you new way how you can concentrate all patterns in one.

How you usually construct shoe pattern?

You will see and understand how each step of this pattern making works using the example of this Oxford shoes



1.  First Basic Pattern



It’s a clean pattern without your design, just to make it fit perfectly on the last.

2.  Complete Basic Pattern. 



After you checked your first basic pattern you can transfer the design of your shoes there.


3. Pattern of the Toe cap with added folding


pattern-construction 004

4. Pattern of the Vamp with folding and under line seam allowance


pattern-construction 005

5.Pattern of the quarters with underline seam allowance and folding

pattern-construction 006

6. The pattern of the back part with around folding


7. Pattern of the tongue with under line seam allowance


pattern-construction 008

New approach to pattern construction


1 First Basic pattern (as it was in previous method)

pattern-construction 002

2 Complete Basic Pattern

pattern-construction 002

3. Compete basic pattern with all seam allowance of each detail on it.


To this complete Basic pattern you will add lines of each detail (toe cap, vamp etc) all necessary seams allowance. All design, details and parts of this model will be concentrated in one place.

Once you marked all seam allowances of each shoe part on the basic pattern, you will have a full map, a guide for each part that you need for this shoe.



The good thing about this approach is, that when you create pattern of specific detail you don’t need to think each time, how much millimeters you need to add for seam allowance and adjust each time your compasses.
This way you  will save your time and will work faster. It’s especially helpful if you need to make many different patterns in short time.

On the other hand this approach can be very confusing and not that clean. Concentrating too many lines, design, seam allowances of every part will require your full attention.  So work with this kind of pattern very carefully and here is a quick tip.
To not be confused with so many marks on your Basic pattern, mark them with different colors, for example folding mark with blue color, under line mark with red color etc.

Those are the two ways you can work on the pattern. I from my personal experience, if I don’t need to create dozen patterns I prefer the first clean way. What way of pattern making do you prefer?

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There are 9 Comments

  1. Posted by Pete Julienne

    Sveta great info. I wish I would have known this a long time ago. This would have saved me many hours of work. Thank you for sharing. …

  2. Posted by badejo sesan

    yeah, that for real oxford shoe pattern

  3. Posted by Raihan

    This process should be published in detail pattern making process.

    • Posted by Sveta Kletina

      The idea of this post was to show a different way to work on pattern and not to teach how to make entire pattern. There is enough courses and resources on this site on how to make shoes and how to make pattern.

  4. Posted by sayem


  5. Posted by Christine James

    Hi, Do you sell basic patterns?


    • Posted by Sveta Kletina


      No I don’t sell basic patterns but I do teach how to make them.

  6. Posted by Tonia

    I really love your ways of getting things done.
    I also prefer the idea of teaching how get things done. “Don’t give me fish, teach me how to fish”
    Thanks a lot Sveta. Your are wonderful.

    • Posted by Sveta Kletina

      Thank you Tonia