In this unique course, you will learn how to create handmade welted shoes from taking foot measurements to a finished pair of your own English Welted Oxford Brogue Shoes.
With welted construction, we sew the upper to the insole using a strap of leather welt and we sew the welt to the sole.
English welted construction is a traditional shoe making technique that is used to create long lasting shoes, that are comfortable and made with natural materials.
There are different techniques in welted shoe construction, and what is unique about English welted construction is, that the welt is sewn all around the bottom of the shoe. [ In ordinary construction the welt is sewn only until the heel].
In this course, you will learn how to create men’s Oxford Brogue shoes from 2 master shoemakers.
Branislav Stajic, a 3 generation shoemaker with more than 25 years of experience of making handmade shoes.
Sveta Kletina- footwear designer, shoemaker, pattern maker with 15 years experience of making handmade shoes.
The process of making English Welted Oxford Brogue Shoes consists of more than 300 steps of work that you will learn in this course:
- Foot measurements & Adjusting the lasts to fit you perfectly ( last customization)
- How to apply the design of brogue Oxford shoes correctly on the last
- Full pattern construction of brogue Oxford: basic pattern, upper pattern, lining pattern
- Cutting/ Assembling/ Sewing
- Leather insole construction. You will learn how to prepare leather insoles for welting, working only with a simple shoe knife
- Making leather stiffeners
- Lasting upper on the last
- Preparing the welt and sewing to the lasted upper
- Sole sewing with hidden stitches
- Heel building from vegetable tanned leather
- Finishing
- Sock lining making
What is English Welted construction?
In ordinary cemented shoe construction, we attach the upper of our shoes to the insole and sole using glue.
With welted construction, we sew the upper to the insole using a strap of leather welt and we sew the welt to the sole.
English welted construction is a traditional shoe making technique that is used to create long lasting shoes, that are comfortable and made with natural materials.
There are different techniques in welted shoe construction, and what is unique about English welted construction is, that the welt is sewn all around the bottom of the shoe. [ In ordinary construction the welt is sewn only until the heel].