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How to make Penny loafers shoes Full guide

How To Make Penny Loafers Shoes
Full Guide




Sveta Kletina
Footwear  Designer




Full step by step tutorial for making penny loafers, pattern making, cutting leather and assembling.
The guide is accompanied with 5 detailed videos.
For up to 4 cm heel pattern.



Table of contents

Introduction– 3

Loafers Basic Pattern– 4

Upper pattern– 11

Loafers Lining pattern– 15

Thin non-woven lining- 19

Cutting leather patterns- 21

Assembling Penny Loafers details- 21







In order to understand the characteristics and origin of Penny Loafer shoe type, we need to learn and understand one of the most popular models of shoes, moccasins. Moccasin – traditional shoes of North American natives. Different tribes had their own ways of cutting and sewing. A distinctive feature of the moccasin is that they are made from a single cut piece of leather and sewn in the middle or made of two single cut parts and sole with a large shoe tongue, that is sewn on the instep.

It is this version of sewing moccasins taken over by European shoemakers, and now many types of shoes are made based on moccasins structure.  Because, for sewing this kind of moccasins special equipment is required, it developed into more simplified, more decorative version of this shoe model, which is called penny loafers or just loafers.  
Although dividing loafers to shoe tongue and side parts still remain, they are not made in a single cut, together with the sole. Besides that, loafers can be decorated with laces on front, tassels, decorative pocket or metal buckles.

In this book, I will explain in detail and show you how to make penny loafers pattern, which you can sew without special equipment. I will also show you two ways of pattern lining, how to cut leather pattern, assemble items and how to sew it all together.
I simplified the lining pattern, that based on this example of loafers you could do any other design. Lining pattern with a small difference, which is typical for a standard lining is divided into the same parts as the upper of the pattern. The main thing in this pattern version is, to accurately skive the leather at the connection of those parts. This is one of the simplest methods of dividing the lining pattern. The second way of lining pattern is a classic way and more common in shoe production. We will begin with a basic loafers pattern, and based on it, we will make all the component parts of penny loafers.






Loafers Basic Pattern
BP-Basic pattern


Tape adhesive tape strip and mark the center lines, front, and rear.

Penny Loafers shoes pattern 1

2. Mark so-called meridians of the last – the line where the shoe and the foot connect the most.


* To do this, place the last to the edge of the table and mark the point A-center of the outermost place on the foot. Likewise, mark the point B on the inner side of the last.


Penny Loafers shoes pattern2
* With an elastic ruler draw a line across the center line in the front of the last, connecting the marked points A and B. That’s how we obtain the point of intersection C.

 Penny Loafers shoes pattern 3


* Connect the points C and A with a line, divide it in half, add 0.5 mm and mark point D so that the segment DA is shorter than DC segment . DA = AC/2-0, 5 mm.

 Penny Loafers shoes pattern 4


* At the center line in the heel mark the point H, paving 54 mm from the edge of the heel up. 54 mm is for size 37 only, each additional size increases by 1 mm.


Penny Loafers shoes pattern 5


* With elastic ruler connect  points D and