Toe puff and counters- working with fabric

Two important issues we have to consider when lasting a shoes from fabric and in this blog post I want to concentrate  on stiffeners.
In this lesson “Fashionable ballet flat shoes from fabric course : Lasting – 005” for a stiffeners I use a non chemical woven material, but as a second choice you of course can use a Veg tan leather, it will work fine as well. The only problem with using Veg tan leather for stiffeners when you making shoes from fabric is thickness. Although you can and must skive the leather, it will never be as thin as the non woven sheet and because you are lasting shoes with fabric which is thin material it will stick out under the fabric, creating bumps and not very clean look to your shoes. That is why when working with fabric I use non chemical woven sheets, because they are thin enough and I can skive them and sand them as well.

Veg-Tan-leather for toe puff

The second issue when using a fabric material is glue. Non woven material consist glue inside of it and as we will activate it with a thinner the glue will come out.


When you working with leather there is nothing to be worry about, but with fabric you must check it even in the stage of choosing the right fabric for your upper. Choose a dense fabric that don’t absorb glue too much, because if it does, it will be visible on your upper and obviously you don’t want that. So make your test before you start lasting it will save you a lot of time .

What type of fabric have you chose for your project?

Shoemaking Courses
  • April 8, 2014

Leave a Reply 2 comments