January 10, 2019

Lasting Allowance in Shoemaking

Lasting allowance in shoemaking is an extra material that you need to have in all your shoe patterns in order to attach the edge of the upper and lining to the insole during lasting.

cut out pattern with lasting allownce

How does it work in shoemaking?

  • After you will take off your masking tape pattern from the last and will attach it to the cardboard you will have the masking tape pattern with netto edge - the exact edge of the shoe last bottom. 

This edge correspondent the insole edge

  • To this edge of your masking tape pattern you will need to add lasting allowance

  • This masking tape pattern will be your basic pattern to make the upper pattern and lining pattern from.

This is how you will have this extra -lasting allowance in all your pattern parts. That’s why you will be able to attach the edge of the leather upper and lining to the insole during lasting.

In shoemaking there is certain lasting allowance that you need to add to the different places of your masking tape shoe pattern to have enough lasting allowance -not too short and not too long.

pattern of lasting allowance

It can become longer during lasting because of the stretchiness of the leather. But it is better to have an extra  material than a lack of it, because extra you can always cut out during lasting. 

So learn in this tutorial (at the beginning of this article) how to add the lasting allowance to the edge of your masking tape pattern and to know more about shoe attern and templates, read this shoe making article: "Shoe pattern and templates".

Don’t forget to comment here, if this tutorial was useful for you!

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About the author 

Sveta Kletina

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  1. Thank you Sveta this information is extremely useful – as I am now following the Ballerina pump course, and now have clarity in regards to lasting and how much material to use in the lasting process.
    My feet measurements are bespoke due to wide feet, so this means the pattern looks different as you have explained. Thank you so much the tutorials are a very important part of my development in the shoe making process.

    1. That is great Marcia, I am glad you follow the lessons and I’m sure it will give the right results. I will follow

  2. Thanks again Sveta, another really useful snippet of guidance 🙂 All of these little extras are much appreciated. Richard

    1. The strobel has another size, this pattern is usually for Goodyear assemblies. but it is better that you have material than that you lack

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