There are few anatomical shoemaking lines you must know to make correct shoe pattern.
These shoemaking and pattern making lines will influence not only on the comfort of your shoes but on the look of your shoes as well.
The fact is that to apply any shoe design on the shoe last (in the process of the pattern making is the first step) you can't just draw your shoe design anywhere on the shoe last. You need to design your shoe along specific anatomical shoemaking lines that belong to specific footwear type you want to make.
It will guarantee the correctness of your shoe pattern, meaning , that you will have comfortable footwear that will not hurt you.
So in this post I will teach you what are these anatomical shoemaking lines you must know to make correct shoe pattern.
Watch the shoemaking tutorial at the beginning of this article carefully and don’t worry if it was too fast, I will explain everything.
What This shoemaking tutorial is about?!
It’s not just a very short explanation on how to apply correctly the design of your pump shoes on the last,
it is a big part of the fundamental understanding of shoe pattern construction that you must know to work like a pro in pattern making and shoemaking as well.
Let’s dive in.
In shoe making there are many different shoe types and each shoe type has its own rules of construction
BUT there are few main rules that are general for almost every shoe type construction.
In this shoe making tutorial, I showed you what anatomical shoemaking lines and points you should follow to design and make a pattern of the pump/flat ballet shoes.
You will be surprised but the same lines are the primary lines in pattern construction of almost all shoe types.
There are other important rules of construction, of course, specific for different shoe types, but these lines are the most important lines you will need to use in pattern construction of most of the footwear types you know.
That’s why in my Beginner Pro you will begin to learn shoemaking from flat ballet shoes and pump shoes.
To learn shoemaking in the most efficient way this is the best order of learning: learn the primary rules of construction first and then move smoothly, without any difficulty to more complicated footwear types like Oxford shoes.
This is how you should learn shoemaking if you want to get the best results in a short period of time.
[That is what we all want]
So, what are those anatomical lines, points you have seen in the tutorial and must know in your shoemaking craft?
1. Central front and central back lines in shoe making
I will not talk about these lines in this post as I already made shoemaking tutorial about these lines. Check it here > 2 Lines In Shoe Making That You Should Know
2. Point H- the height of the back part of the footwear.
The same point you will need to mark in pattern construction of all other court footwear types.
In the tutorial, this mark should be measured along the back central line from the bottom edge.
For each shoe size, there are its own measurements. For size 37, for example, is 54 mm.
Through this point H, you will draw the sideline for every court shoes.
Later you will learn about this sideline.
3. Joint line- AA1
This line passes in the widest front area of the shoe last, where point A is the middle of the most extended place on the outer side of the last;
point A1 is the middle of the most extended place on the inner side of the last.
4. Point C - is the point where the joint line AA1 intercross the central front line of the shoe last.
5. Sideline- DH
To draw the sideline, connect point H with the middle of the joint line: ½ of the CA.
Here in this shoe making tutorial, you can learn more about the sideline.
Your safe zone in shoemaking
HDC is your safe zone to design pumps and flat ballet shoes,
meaning that in these boundaries you can draw the throat line for your pumps/flats.
Don’t draw the throat line higher, don’t draw the sideline higher than HDC.
This is, as simple as it is! Really?
Oh, no, there are some exceptions that you will need to learn! Unfortunately, shoemaking craft is more then that and If you will want to learn shoemaking, you will need to go deeper and It wouldn’t be possible for me to give you the full info in this blog posts format but you can find in this article: "Shoe pattern and templates" a ton of useful shoe making techniques and tutorials.
Right now I want that you will get the general idea of the pattern construction rules and about primary lines and points.
Do you have questions?
Did you understand what are those parameters 18.5,19.5 etc? And if so, could it be different numbers?
Let me know in the comment and we will discuss it here!