February 28, 2019

Hidden Seam in Shoemaking

Hidden seam in shoemaking is all about skills and experience. In shoemaking there are many different techniques and tips in making shoes and how you will make your shoes depends on the knowledge that you have.

One shoe type can be made with different heels, shoe soles, insoles, decorative elements, finishing- all these it’s up to you and your craftsmanship.

If you are beginner in shoemaking and just want to make some shoes you should know that you have a big choice of different shoemaking and pattern making techniques that you can use in making your shoes.

That’s why in my 1 Year shoemaking Program I offer to my students a big specter of different shoemaking and pattern making techniques that will allow them to make their own shoes with the skills that they already have or will gain in the future.

If you are sceptic about it, check the works of my students!

That is a huge step from being a zero in shoemaking to making your shoes and to encourage you even more, I invite you to check this article about your possibilies in Budget-Friendly Options to Learn Shoe Making.

So what type of shoes do you want make?

If you are serious about shoemaking and not just browsing there or here, comment bellow: 

“ I want to make….(pumps, oxfords, moccasins whatever you like)”

Comment and I will explain in my next post about shoemaking and pattern making techniques regarding your shoe type.

Don’t waste your chance to learn shoemakign from shoemaker!

If you are a creative person that just thinking about making of your own shoes, subscribe to my email list to get my tips, posts and here you will decide if shoemaking is for you.

Hidden seam in shoemaking 

Now, as I told in the beginning of this post that there are many different shoe making techniques in the making of each part of footwear, so in the making of welted shoes there are really many different shoe making approaches. 

Today I am gonna talk with you about final seam that holds together the welt and the shoe sole. 

Among the possibilities you have in the making of welted shoes, I love hidden seam the most.

I love and teach it in my English welted men oxford shoe course because it is much stronger and much more beautiful than visible seam made just on the bottom of the shoe sole.

Hey, it’s my opinion!

What does it mean a hidden seam in shoemaking?

It means that this seam is hidden inside of the shoe sole.

How it is done?

To make this hidden seam you need to cut the top layer of the shoe sole, make a channel (a groove inside of this cut) and sew the welt through this channel. 

The stitches of the seam must fit inside of the channel.

So after you will finish to sew, you will close the channel by attaching this cut layer to the main part of the shoe sole.

If you already familiar with my shoe making approach you should know that shoemaking tools that I use are basic tools that you can source everywhere. 

If you here in the first time, remember that I don’t use any fancy, any expensive or some specific shoemaking tools.

I am making my shoes and I teach my students on how to make shoes working with basic set of shoemaking tools.

So, to make this channel you need to have shoemaking knife, shoemaking hammer, some broken awl and sleeking bone. That’s it. 

To understand it better watch a shoe making tutorial (at the beginning of the article) on what steps you should follow in making of the hidden seam in shoe making. And if you want to know the entire process of shoemaking, how much time it requires to make a pair of shoe making materials you need to use, make sure to read this article: "How to make shoes".

Hidden seam in shoemaking and shoemaker who does it well

Do you have questions? I am sure you have.

The best way to learn is to ask questions,

In the comment.

See you in the next shoe making tutorial!

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About the author 

Sveta Kletina

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  1. Thanks, Sveta, for these superbly informative videos. KEEP THEM COMING, PLEASE. I may not comment on each one, but I greatly appreciate them all. I am going to try and make some loafers for my daughter. Loafers mostly seem to have a (false?) ‘seam’ around the upper part of the vamp. How is this done? Do you have a tutorial on making loafers? Many thanks, Richard.

    1. Thank you Richard. You can see how to make the design and pattern from moccasin course. The other choice is to go to my ebook on Penny loafers. But first I would suggest to finish with the design from mccasins and send me the pic, i’ll tell you what to do.

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