Clean shoemaking: Fix the folds on your heel


In today’s post, I will discuss another annoying problem that makes your shoemaking experience less pleasant and much more difficult than it should be, and I will give you the solution to this shoemaking problem.

Before I will go on to the problem and solution, few words of wisdom! 100% you will be able to fix all those problems after making the same mistakes over and over again because there is nothing like experience. Remember if you have problems with your model, it doesn’t fit or any other problem related, it must be your pattern.

The problem that many of you asked me about was:

During lasting, many folds are created around the heel bottom.

The solution :

It often happens and the cause for it is not your soft upper leather, as many of your think, although it could influence the amount of the folds that you will have in that area, the reason for it is your pattern.

All you need to do to fix this problem is, to shorten your pattern in the bottom of your heel.

Step 1.

Measure and mark point A at the bottom of your heel pattern  2-5mm ( the difference is in the type of leather that you use).

step-1 fix folds on heel

Step 2.

Draw a smooth line from the middle of the heel(point B)  to this point (A). Make this line smooth as possible, not to create a curve in the middle of your heel.

step-2 fix folds on heel


Step 3.

Cut it out.


Make this correction on your basic pattern, this way you will correct your upper and lining right away.

Leather type:

As I mentioned above the distance of the cut is depends on the stretchiness of your leather. If you have stretchy and soft leather you need to cut more.

You will understand this, when you’ll make your first prototype you will see how much needed to be cut off or you can check it by making only the upper using the same leather. Just remember that you must take into account that normally you will last it with lining and stiffeners, so make sure that you will leave 2mm empty between your edge of the upper and the last.

That is it. I see it as a very important problem that must be solved, as I personally don’t like too many folds on my shoes, it must be smooth and clean as possible.

Have you found this solution useful to you?
What are you struggling with? Tell me all about it in the comment below.


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  • June 2, 2014

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